Patience is a virtue, unless you patiently waited out a new album from the band that gave us "Patience", in which case you're f***ing crazy. Expanding after biding their time for more than a half century: Smith's, whose new place is now soft open.
Pleasing north-easterly seafood lovers since 1958, Smith's long-considered but only now-realized follow-up appropriately moors itself by the Thames, poaching J Sheeky's head man to cook up deep-blue bounty in a space that roughly replicates the clean, leather-chaired, brick-walled look of the Essex original, which brazenly goes without hoop earrings. Smaller stuff's split between cold (whole dressed Scottish crab, rolled Swedish herrings, etc.) and hot, with the likes of pan-fried sardines w/ salsa verde, and garlic-buttered grilled "farci" mussels prepared in a manner April O'Neil would deeply appreciate -- in a half shell. Big fish -- from Guernsey skate to Norwegian halibut -- come cooked "any way you like" (grilled, fried in batter/matzo meal, meuniere, etc.), while the "Lobster and Crustacean" menu yields such goodness as herbed & hot-buttered lobs, plus scallops including in-shell gratin and pan-fried Scottish kings, modest vengeance when you consider the last one hung a man up by his nipples.
Along with the surf there's also plenty of turf, like ginger/honey-glazed Barbary duck, roast lamb rump w/ rosemary jus, and sirloin & fillet Aberdeenshire -- the same place that spawned Hugh Mercer, who during the American Revolution helped produce a Democracy far more speedily than Chinese.