Food & Drink

Farm-to-table oinkers in East London

Beating around the bush is only enjoyable if you're keen on Bon Scott-style double-entendre, which is why just-opened Lardo breaks no bones about its intentions. Set in a high-ceiling'd space whose exposed wires & pipes, contrasted with reclaimed wood furnishings, make it seem like a postmodern farm kitchen wrapped in concrete, the fattily named place specializes in farm-to-table charcuterie served either on boards or on pizzas pumped out of a "disco ball" oven covered in mirror fragments.

The hand-sliced girth-enhancers all hail from the resto's self-reared Mangalitza (the "Wagyu of pork"), and include sweet coppa, an "extraordinarily hot" soft 'Nduja sausage, black anise pepperoni, fennel pollen salami, and of course rosemary-cured lardo, which, when ordered by Sir Mix-A-Lot's girlfriend, allows him to say "Baby got back fat".

Even though watching your weight's a bit boring when it stays static, they also serve sea-bites like smoked swordfish and cuttlefish in their own ink. Beverage-wise, there's a simple cocktail bar serving up spritzes, Negronis, martinis, etc, as well Italian beer & wine. Like the food, those are also available to-go, so between the booze and the gut-builders, you can get right on the Highway to Hell.