Pall Mall gets French-British fusion

Now open in Pall Mall, this cavernous space displays opulence worthy of its address, with ornate marble-set columns, a pair of oak & ebony spiral staircases (leading to the Champagne balcony, naturally), and mahogany dining chairs pushed up to resin-topped tables. "French-British" fusion thankfully skips the bitterness to yield such cross-Channel cross-breeds as brioche toad in the hole w/ pistachio sausage, Scottish beef & foie gras cottage pie, and "Pike custard": a style of fish-covered savoury flan originally served at The French Laundry, hopefully not the one DSK's sheets were headed to.