Indian chef learns about Indian food

Even the most tenured expat craves the taste of home, which is why Alex Ferguson's still chewing that same piece of gum, and why Notting Hill's now seeing the opening of Chakra: a chandelier-lit spot headed up by an Indian native who, after a decade cheffing in the UK, traveled back to learn from his home country's masters.

Each section of the menu pays homage to a region and its culinary method, with Punjab offering everything from a super-hot "chulha" charcoal grill cauterizing venison kakori kebabs (infused w/ a specially roasted masala from the royal kitchens), to English lamb chops roasted in lemon yoghurt and sandalwood powder, hopefully not ground from a strappy former home to someone else's chops.

Lucknow tongue-pleasers are griddled on a flat iron "tawa", and include hefty seared garlic scallops w/ cardamom & chilli oil, as well as scorched tilapia fillets dipped in leek & spring onion marinade, then flavoured w/ carom, a spice described as being "like thyme", though only the most ardent subcontinentalist will wish he had more of it.

As for Delhi, things trend old-school, with clay tandoors filled with the likes of smoked roasted quail in chickpea powder, black cod in lime juice, duck breast tenderized with papaya, and salmon in ginger juice -- a Scholes-ish beverage Fergie drank so much of, it's a wonder he didn't accidentally swallow that gum.