Food & Drink

You'll never guess what they serve

When attempting to achieve success, it's often the slow road that's paved with gold, though this summer it was actually paved with Fabregas. Proving that slow and steady also stuffs your face: Meat Liquor, officially launching tomorrow.

Starting with a food truck, moving to a popup, and now finally finding a permanent central London home, the vagabonds behind Meateasy have up-classed inside an abandoned Italian resto whose elegant columns and circular windows they've bathed in non-classical red neon, while plastering the domed ceiling with snarling wolves and bears -- though a true union of Sistine Chapel and insatiable meat-eater should also include Maradona's hand. The new stuff starts with...starters like deep-fried pickles, then moves to breaded fare like a grilled pork tenderloin sandwich named I Am Lomo, and freshly baked sourdough jobs such as the wing meat-only Buffalo Chicken and the "Big Mac on steroids" Double Bubble, inflating you 'til you pop. The classics also show, with the founding-favourite 28-day-aged chuck steak classic burger, the seared rib eye Philly Cheesesteak smothered in Provolone, and the double-patty, secret-sauced Dirty Hippy, as if you can stop to shower when being chased by a T-Rex.

Bringing out the whole "Liquor" thing is the "Dishonesty Bar", where they'll be serving jam jars full of classic 'tails, plus originals like a martini sided by a bacon-coated quail's egg, labeled the Full English, also what Barcelona called it when they ended up having to kiss some Arsenal.