Food & Drink

Peru comes to deepest darkest London

Taking its cues from one of the world's most ancient, bizarre, and inaccessible cultures -- Mayfair -- the bar, resto, and member's club Coya is also inspired by a very opulent vision of South America. Lodged inside a Georgian building plushly furnished with that continent's murals & antiques, the place looks like a lounge Indiana Jones would've haunted during his "so over taking shots in freezing dive bars with Marion" phase.The all-Peruvian menu starts with a ceviche bar, moves on to "para picar" (small plates such as charred sirloin w/ quail eggs, and crayfish & chilli pepper soup), then finally lands on largeness like ox heart & parsley skewers, a cast iron pot of chilli, Chilean sea bass & rice, and duck breast accented by lucuma (a bit like a sweet potato) and coriander shoots (coriander scores!). The pisco bar's also impressive, counting a dozen infusions brewed in traditional "botija mud" containers. A few of these are reserved for members, as are a separate dining area, outdoor terrace, and whole other bar -- drinking there will make you more inaccessible, though being old and bizarre is on you.