Sometimes a thing can be a long time coming, and yet totally inevitable, like Martin Scorsese finally getting that Oscar, or Leonardo DiCaprio finally bottling his own pee. Feast on a far more delicious long-time-coming inevitability, at Quince, opening Tuesday
After two high-profile decades in the eating industry, with newspaper columns, TV appearances, and half a dozen cookbooks under her belt, Silvena Rowe's debut is a sharply modern Damascus-style space, colourfully filled with tiles and glass, vintage mirrors, and an open kitchen-peeping counter topped by flat onyx and fronted with beaten copper, who's presumably saying "I bloody told you we should get guns".
Matching that's a similarly modern Eastern Mediterranean menu starting out with sharers including chilli caramel & harissa-glazed chicken wings, veal & prawn surf 'n turf w/ sweet red pepper, and filo parcels stuffed w/ pistachio, spiced foie & duck, magically de-livered even before it arrives.
From the custom vertical grill comes heftier fare like pork belly glazed w/ blueberry & coriander molasses, and 45-day côte de boeuf coated in oregano, black sesame za'atar, and quince marmalade; meanwhile, the stone oven yields 12hr-cooked Ottoman-style pulled lamb shoulder for two (so, regardless of the style, you will need back...up).
If that's not enough lamb for you, give them a day's notice, and they'll spit-roast an entire milk-fed beast (enough food for eight), tarting it up with the likes of Persian spices, lemon balm, pomegranate molasses, pistachio nuts, and wild blueberries -- which, if winning an Academy Award is like orgasming, was also the color of Martin's berries for around 30 years.