Food & Drink

Reasonable prices for unreasonably great drink-dining

After putting the "No" in "Noho", Fitzrovia's continuing to do the right thing with today's opening of drink/diner Dabbous, where a Michelin'd head chef (ex-Fat Duck, Noma, Texture...) will helm the topside resto, an award-winning former Cuckoo Clubber will tend the beverages below, and wood tables & leather chairs add warmth to an NY-industrial vibe of bare brickwork, copper pipes, and sheet metal, also what Carlos Santana thought of the last Metallica album. And so:

The Food: Sharing portions (starting at just £4) span inventiveness like beef tartare w/ cigar oil, whiskey, and rye, alongside some roast king crab in warm buttermilk, and a belly cut of BBQ Ibérico pork w/ acorn praline & homemade apple vinegar​. Even a simple side like mash pots comes soaked in roasting juices & black truffles, which growing underground, are constantly being told to get that dirt off their shoulder.

The Drink: Subterranean refreshments from the sleekly back-lit concrete bar are just as eyebrow-raising, taking in the Scandinavian Leather​ (single malt, cigar syrup, green apple), the absinthe/quince liqueur/ripe pear Cat Diesel, and the as-of-yet Unnamed #1, bringing together grappa, black tea liqueur, and unrefined sugar, the kind you'd expect to see in Soho.