Food & Drink

Ex-Nobu head chef conquers London, via Horsham

Making the capitol almost as sexy as Sussex, the former Nobu London head chef behind that county's vaunted Japanese resto, Wabi, has opened a sleek, understated second location in Holborn, where black & beige tones give it the feel of permanent nighttime. Sushi dives into inventive territory populated by... diver scallops w/ yuzu truffled egg sauce, beef fillet tataki w/ onion ponzu, and scorched cauliflower w/ Shetland squid, which despite not being giant is worth ponying up for.Go deeper into the menu for signatures like tea-smoked duck w/ burnt ginger, blowtorch-scorched BBQ pork buns, a "foie gras martini" (served in a glass w/ umushu jelly, nashi pear & puffed rice), and chilled somen noodles w/ shiitake soup, wasabi, and "crunchies" (give them a twirl). To be truly Sussexy, a place must have an exotic cocktail bar, and this one pours Oriental flavours like the Sho-jin Martini (gin, shochu, Japanese pickles), the Lotus Blossom (sake, ginseng liqueur, lychee), and the spiced rum/plum wine/whiskey mist Old Man and the Sea -- it'll make you so sexy, you'll demand everybody calls you Big Papa.