Food & Drink

The Brawn guys play the river card

A new soft-open joint HQ for the dudes behind Brawn and Soif, The Green Man & The French Horn is a former Covent Garden pub turned resto that either draws all of its inspiration either from an unreleased 1976 concept album by Brian Eno, or the waters and banks of the Loire River -- probably the latter, given the Gallic-aquatic menu, and the wall erected from imported chateau stones.Said menu swims from by-the-dozen Fines de Claire oysters, to lemon sole slathered in seaweed butter, then flops onto the land with items like huge girolle mushrooms w/ artichoke & warm egg yolk, and rabbit in cider, both coming with clams, toms, and coco beans, even though it's her boobs that tend to cause more commotion.Drowning all that is another river, this one of all-biodynamic wines, encompassing 200 producers out of only 450 in the entire world, unsurprising given how difficult it is to make: a nine-step process involving cow horn, stinging nettles, and stags' bladders -- hey Eno, there's the title of your next ambient masterpiece!