Food & Drink

Coral Gables' newest tavern o' vino

Proving that sprucing up anything is possible, except of course spruce trees, since they’re already mad sprucey: Cibo Wine Bar, an Italian-plating vino haven open for dinner on Tuesday, which performed a true miracle by classing up the Mile's former Sports Exchange with Old World-ness in the form of a giant stone oven/pizza bar, and a slew of just-mod-enough butcher block tables lining dimly lit, exposed brick insets adorned with mirrors.

Similarly rustic eats range from antipasto like polenta fries with gorgonzola dip, to spicy wine/garlic/tomato sauce-covered black tiger shrimp, to 15 pies including the Diavola (mozz/roasted red peppers/tomato/spicy Calabrese salami) and one covered in Gorgonzola and pears before being doused in honey, which is delicious despite a frankly underwhelming performance by Lil' Romeo.

They'll regularly rotate upwards of 400 labels of mostly affordable wines (plus bonus-busters like a $500 '93 Ornellaia Antinori, which you should probably get 12 of), which hail from all over Italy, France, and Cali, including by-the-glassers like "Whispering Angel" Rose, or what interviewees call Charlie when he runs out of Ricolas, and is extra-nice.

And in case you’re sick of tannin-content debates, Cibo's also working up cocktails like La Fragola Margarita (Toschi Fragoli Liqueur/triple sec/Cazadores Tequila) and a mint/Disaronno/Bacardi Superior/simple syrup-packed Mojito Italiano -- drink enough of them, and it’ll be a miracle if you're not ever-green yourself.