Food & Drink

Flipping the lid on St. Paul's famed Italian joint

The cherry on top of Cosetta's $15M renovation (which also includes a new market, cafeteria-style eatery, and, eventually, a pastry shop built in Italy then deconstructed & imported) is pretty f'ing cherry indeed. A Cary Grant-worthy rooftop beacon, Louis boasts a mahogany bar made in England, oak appointments throughout, and floor-to-ceiling windows providing panoramic views of everything from the Mighty Miss to the Cathedral, so pray that they let you lounge there indefinitely

While there'll be echoes of the cannoli-fied chow-fest that goes on in the cafeteria two floors down, the food's definitively more refined, with antipastas like cold poached shellfish tossed with root vegetables in lemon citronette, and classic pastas ranging from "Mama C's" spaghetti & meatballs to manila clams in white wine broth. Secondi counts a pan-seared veal chop, short ribs, and a shrimp/squid/scallops/cod stew, all of which can -- nay, should -- be sided with their oven-roasted "root medley," which promises not to overshadow the menu in the same way Jimmy Fallon's does him

That fancy mahogany bar, meanwhile, will be pouring classics like Negronis, embarrassingly great-sounding non-classics like Tiramisu Martinis (vanilla vodka, Kahlua, Bailey's, and cocoa powder), and 12 taps ranging from Italian standards like Moretti, to domestics like Lift Bridge Hop Dish and Fulton Sweet Child, named for a class of people who only get excited about cherries when they're perched atop Shirley Temples.