24 hours of Cuba

Published On 04/01/2011 Published On 04/01/2011

New Yorkers are accustomed to getting what they want 24/7, but what happens when they want Cuban? Oh wait, that dude's always on TV! Giving you the food kind of Cuban 24/7: Coppelia.

Named for a Havana ice cream shop, this all-hours "traditional Cuban luncheonette" from the Toloache/Yerba Buena chef's outfitted Caribbean-style with a large marble bar sporting spinning stools, and a stained glass window separating the kitchen from a dining room set with rounded banquettes & booths that resemble the backs of '50s Chevys, though that doesn't mean they're convertibles. Island-inspired options start up with seven different egg dishes including the Omelet Coppelia (Manchego, roasted red peppers, serrano ham), Huevos Cubanos w/ potato croquettes & sweet plantains, and the Huevos Palomilla, served with rice, black beans, and pounded sirloin, a treatment that's usually reserved for skirts. Non-breakfast goodness is avail as well, from empanadas, chicken chicharrons, and spicy chocolate-glazed wings, to plates of Caribbean rum-glazed shrimp w/ mashed green plantains, Argentinian Parrillada (skirt steak, short rib, chorizo, sweetbreads), and beef- & cheese-stuffed Arepas de Pabellon, not to be confused with Arepas de Papelbon, which just stare at you all crazy until you retire the sides.

There's even a bountiful selection of sandwiches, including the roast pork chicarron/pickled onion/mojo Pan con Lechon, a rum-glazed brisket number w/ horseradish sauce, and a Cubano, about as much pig as you get in one place until the Mavs come on.

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1. Coppelia 207 W 14th St, New York, NY 10011 (Chelsea)

Named for a Havana ice cream shop, this 24/7 "traditional Cuban luncheonette" from the Yerba Buena chef is outfitted Caribbean-style, with a large marble bar sporting spinning stools, and a beautiful stained glass window near the kitchen. The eats are designed for the post-Meatpacking group, with Cuban classics like ceviche, fried cheese balls, and empanadas ready to satisfy even the most aggressive of 4am appetites.



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