Food & Drink

Bowery's new dopeness

Published On 09/19/2011 Published On 09/19/2011

Horse racing has a rich, lush history, which is unsurprising considering how popular it is with people who can be described that way themselves. For a place where you can at least dine like one of those lucky few: Saxon + Parole. From the same Michelin-starred team behind former inhabitant Double Crown, S+P (named for the famed horses) brims with equine-inspired rustic-ness including a fireplace'd dining room with horse blankets stacked on the shelves, a wooden bar backed by vintage cabinetry, and a downstairs wine room whose ceiling is laden with horseshoes, the perfect ambiance for tossing a few back. Specializing in "Grilled Meats and Aquatic Delights", the kitchen breaks out with fittingly decadent, Dom-paired seafood towers, foie gras & five-spice terrine w/ grilled peaches, miso-glazed marrow with orange/olive marmalade, and boozed-up spreads like chicken liver mousse (port & pepper jelly) to go on sourdough that's toasted even before getting totally covered by a boozed-up spread. Second-coursers are serious business, from whole grilled Maine lobsters with roasted corn, sun-dried chili butter, and pickled tomatillos, to steaks (strip, filet, tag-team-able 30oz rib eyes) aged for 28 days and served with bone marrow bearnaise or housemade steak sauce, to a grilled Berkshire pork chop with apple and quince sauce, a fitting pairing, as people from Quincy love 'dem apples. Rounding it out, the cocktail program is literally bananas thanks to a banana-rum Old Fashioned with PX sherry and chocolate bitters, and they make Manhattans using their personal brand of locally distilled rye whiskey and leather bitters, also a good way to describe those rich lushes when their horses lose.

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1. Saxon + Parole 316 Bowery, New York, NY 10012 (East Village)

Saxon + Parole is a stylish restaurant on the Bowery whose decor and clientele look straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad. The seafood tower and charcuterie board appetizers define the surf and turf cuisine, as do the separate menu sections dedicated to land, sea, and steak. The standout is the signature burger, topped with melted Havarti cheese, maple bacon, a fried egg, and a bone marrow béarnaise sauce. A vintage wood-paneled bar in the front is well-stocked with whisky and usually packed with groups of thirty-somethings waiting for their table.

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