Food & Drink


Rarely does being a governor have anything to do with the nose-to-tail movement, unless you're Eliot Spitzer, who was into all kinds of weird stuff. For a place interested in tail that most people's wives will actually approve of, hit the Governor in Dumbo (but not like that!).This ultra-seasonal former factory takes its name from the building's original owner, who was not in fact a governor, but was nicknamed that because he... invented corrugated cardboard? Ok, so dude must've been cool in other ways. Now, huge arched windows hurl light onto a wall covered in greenery, as well as a multitude of portraits imagining the old owner as everyone from Marilyn Monroe to KISS -- see, he is cool! The rotating menu takes nose-to-tail a step further by applying it to fruits and vegetables that don't even have tails, and could feature sweetbreads covered in a "bacon and eggs all in one" hollandaise, plus "grass-finished" beef tartare topped w/ pickled ramps-infused fried tapioca, which amounts to "basically the best Funyun you've ever tasted". Desserts are no less insane, including cucumber sorbet w/ charcoal-grilled sour cherries & thyme oil, and a bittersweet ganache made from Mast Bros chocolate, and served with a buckwheat/cocoa "Rice Krispie treat" -- oh, Snap! ...and Crackle... and Pop.There's going to be plenty of eccentric wines (Orange? Yes, orange!), microbrews like a bourbon barrel-aged Ommegang, and a cocktail program that "blurs the lines between bar and kitchen" with sips that include a marg rimmed with dehydrated sea asparagus and mixed with fresh carrot juice, which reports indicate Spitzer was also into. Freak.