Food & Drink

Upscale comfort food in extremely comfortable digs

When opening an Old City spot, there's a few things you have to do: get the Old City Civic Association's approval, make it attractive from the street, and make sure there's enough scaffolding outside so everyone can do pull-ups. Dangerously moving forward with only the first two, Revolution House

RH is a maxed-out diner/ drinkery that insists "it's not an Old City bar" despite mounting evidence against it, instead making food and atmosphere the focus by taking the former Snow White space down to cinder block, adding a second-floor patio, and deco'ing it to basically look like a dusty postcard of a classy lodge, thanks to tinted wood paneling, stamped and textured walls, and a massive vintage chandelier. Starters include elevated takes on staples like tater tots made with onion/ Parmesan/ mustard sauce, and fried red onions with a Sriracha-ranch dip, plus more aggressive eats like shrimp and lamb quenelles, and skewers stacked with shrimp, anchovies, and calamari, also how the Knicks thought they'd fix the team, before realizing they actually had to call his agent first. Mains feature a grip of brick oven pizzas, a sweet-and-sour pork plate served with cabbage & fennel slaw, fried capellini covered in housemade meatballs and ragu, and a half a chicken that's rubbed in Thai spices, wood-fired, and served with glass noodles, which make pool-time fun infinitely edgier than the standard foam ones

While their cocktail list is in development, they're already flush with beer including bottles of Yard's Tavern Porter and eight taps pouring Ommegang Hennepin, Troegs Sunshine Pils, and Victory's St. Boisterous, which's one way to describe Old City on a Satur...oh, crap, he's packing. Duck!!