Food & Drink

How to find Wafu's hidden seafood shrine

Essentially turning Japanese joint Wafu into a Russian nesting doll filled with fish instead of tiny fat women, Roe's a signage-eschewing, reservations-only new seafoodery. To find it, just cruise through Wafu's bustling bar on Thurs-Sat while looking like you know what the hell you're doing and walk directly to the back, where you'll find a cozy dining room featuring low lights, a gigantic mural of a twisting tree, and an open kitchen where the chef cooks up fish he personally selects from coastal merchants.Since freshness is a top priority, the menu's ever-changing, but current offerings include confit halibut w/ gnocchi & lobster bisque, slow-cooked octopus w/ black tagliatelle, uni w/ roasted foie, and swordfish belly, which is the only thing Halle Berry shows when you watch it on TNT. You can order a la carte, get after the four-course feast of your choice, or throw down for a chef grand tasting that covers every fish in the sea (... personally selected from coastal merchants). Just be sure to save room for dessert like a sour cherry/blue cheese crisp, dark chocolate ganache, or confit currant w/ goose berry, something Hugh Jackman did to Halle on the set of Swordfish. Stupid, sexy Hugh Jackman.You can have the chef pair each course with wines from around the world, or pick from a cocktail menu currently featuring the pear brandy/St. Germain Humbling River, and the rye-filled Speakeasy, enough of which will have everyone in the bar looking like that smallest, not-really-that-fat Russian woman.