The best chance to tour Central America without actually going there since Carmen Sandiego sent Patty Larceny to steal the Panama Canal? Pupuseria El Buen Gusto, whose low-key NE Sandy digs have effectively transformed it from an empanada El Dorado way out by Clackamas, to a three-meal fixture in PDX proper. Served to a soundtrack of the very same muted telenovelas you grew up not-watching, the menu features specialty cuisine from Colombia, El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua, and Honduras, with a focus on Salvadorian pupusas: starchy tortillas stuffed w/ meat & cheese, and not Native American babies. They also specialize in beef- and mashed potato-stuffed empanadas, whole fried tilapia, a gigantic slab of Nicaraguan carne asada, Honduran fried chicken w/ gravy, and a signature Guatemalan dish consisting of chicken breast covered in a spicy cream sauce that unfortunately doesn't feel free. There's also a huge Mexican side to the menu featuring the requisite burritos, tacos, and enchiladas if you're mad boring, but you'd be bananas to forgo the plantain-intensive (get that bananas joke now?) dessert menu, which stuffs them into empanadas, or grills them whole and serves 'em with sweet cream in a concoction so addictive, you might be mistaken for Four Chin Hunter next time Carmen's recruiting somebody to steal the Mayan pyramids.