Food & Drink

Pupusas, tacos & Honduran fried chicken on NE Sandy

The best chance to tour Central America without actually going there since Carmen Sandiego sent Patty Larceny to steal the Panama Canal? Pupuseria El Buen Gusto, whose low-key NE Sandy digs have effectively transformed it from an empanada El Dorado way out by Clackamas, to a three-meal fixture in PDX proper.Served to a soundtrack of the very same muted telenovelas you grew up not-watching, the menu features specialty cuisine from Colombia, El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua, and Honduras, with a focus on Salvadorian pupusas: starchy tortillas stuffed w/ meat & cheese, and not Native American babies. They also specialize in beef- and mashed potato-stuffed empanadas, whole fried tilapia, a gigantic slab of Nicaraguan carne asada, Honduran fried chicken w/ gravy, and a signature Guatemalan dish consisting of chicken breast covered in a spicy cream sauce that unfortunately doesn't feel free.There's also a huge Mexican side to the menu featuring the requisite burritos, tacos, and enchiladas if you're mad boring, but you'd be bananas to forgo the plantain-intensive (get that bananas joke now?) dessert menu, which stuffs them into empanadas, or grills them whole and serves 'em with sweet cream in a concoction so addictive, you might be mistaken for Four Chin Hunter next time Carmen's recruiting somebody to steal the Mayan pyramids.