Food & Drink

Turn on the magic of colored light!

Doing two things well at once can be difficult, especially if one of those things is not totally psyched that you brought the other thing into the mix, and only really agreed because it was feeling insecure about its attractiveness and had had like seven sangrias. Somehow actually pulling off a successful double team, Ki, opening today.

The latest addition to SOMA's "Zen Compound" (Prana, Temple Nightclub), Ki's a two-room drinking lounge and izakaya -- leather couch'd boozing den to the left, skewer 'n sushi-serving Japan-taurant to the right -- with an eye-titillating interior that looks sort of like a glue-sniffing Lite-Brite thanks to pulsating wall panels/light fixtures that ominously make their way through the In Living color wheel. The menu's scripted by a well-restaurant'd chef (Aqua, Waterfront, Lark Creek), with simple sauced 'n skewered pork belly, tip-to-tail organic chicken, and rabbit, plus showstoppers like Kasuzuke (cedar plank-cooked seasonal fish cured in the pressed and filtered out part of sake) or the Chicken Evolution: a trio of chicken preparations that include a pastured shoyu-cured egg (with bacon), a breast with pickled sour plums, and a sous-vide fried Asian wing, so... Devin Setoguchi while watching Tim and Eric Awesome Show, Great Job!? Meanwhile, the 10-seat sushi bar (run by a Deep Sushi alum) features a grip of sustainably curated nori fillers, including a seasonally updated Real California Roll (mango, asparagus, rice, seared snapper, and strawberry salsa) and a fusion-y Fish 'n Chips roll that includes tempura striped bass topped with crushed potato chips, just like Kirstie Alley's wedding cakes.

Booze-wise they'll have Temple's full arsenal at their disposal (plus Japanese whiskey/beers/sake), but more importantly: they're slinging complimentary post-meal Popsicle shots and -- Tues-Fri from 430-630p -- an all-you-can-drink Soju Sangria happy hour, which is what you thought that double team would be, until that first thing locked itself in the bathroom after like six minutes.