Surprisingly not named after Simon Le Bon's favorite department store, this convivial Franco-foodery from the accolade-heavy Iron Chef behind Cafe Campagne is serving up playful takes on traditional bistro fare using locally produced ingredients, and a whole range of imbibables (a creative wine list, local suds, specialty 'tails) in case you're not actually Hungry (Like The Wolf). Here's what to expect when it opens today:
The Space: Boasting communal tables that'll make you exclaim "let's start a conversation about these!", and a zinc-edged mahogany bar, this hand-rubbed cement-walled space is lined with red banquettes and black leather/mohair booths, and scattered with small ottomans, who are sensitive enough about the partitioning of their empire during the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, without you giving them ish about their height.
The Starters: Range from classics like housemade chicken & chanterelle mushroom sausage w/ boiled potatoes, to the inventive curried mussels & cucumber salad, to a Northwest-inspired salad number made with salmon roe & warm potato, which, while significantly easier to play, is a much less exciting game.
The Mains: Include a rolled epaule de porc roti w/ beans & cherry tomatoes; Comte-dressed fresh linguini w/ basil pistou & tomato coulis; brined & pan-roasted chicken leg on spiced zucchini; and an herbed S & P Mackerel that is pretty damn big, so be careful post-eating that your pants don't Come Undone.
Thrillist's Best (and the Rest): What You Actually Need to Know About Natural Wine