Food & Drink

Spring Hill hits the reset button

If the mass uprising at the start of the French Revolution proved anything, it's that people don't take kindly to absolute aristocratic authority and will ultimately rebel if not given what they demand really enjoy eating just cake. Giving the people what they actually want, before everyone loses their heads, Ma'ono Fried Chicken & Whiskey.

Responding to the high demand for his previously only-available-on-Monday fried chicken, Mark Fuller has reinvented Spring Hill by changing the name, adding seats to the counter (behind which they'll be mixing up a dozen whiskey-based 'tails), and serving that sweet breaded poultry every night, along with a full menu of comfort foods inspired by his Hawaiian roots. Dig in to some:

Protein: Ma'ono's doing a Dry Aged Washington Steak w/ chicken-fried maitake mushrooms & bone marrow beef jus, and a Whole Trout cooked in coal & washed with Kauai saltwater, but the star is the aforementioned fried bird in flavors ranging from Original Spring Hill Recipe, to Gochujang & Hot Chili, no doubt sourced sometime after Crazy Sexy Cool and before she dumped Usher.

Sides: These extras include Spicy-Hot Kimchi w/ live shucked oysters, Sriracha mayonnaise-topped Furakaki Fries, and grain options like Curry & Bacon-Fried Rice, and the greatest receiver in the history of Congress, Steve Largent, aka White Rice.

Small Plates: Le petite nosh means Wood-Grilled Kalbi Beef Short Ribs w/ chilies & grilled scallions, a housemade Portuguese sausage Ma’ono Dog w/ cilantro, pickles & chicken liver pate, and tempura-style Spiced Ham Musubi hand rolls, though if Marie Antoinette had been a little more focused on putting the latter into the former, the end of this piece would be significantly different.

Photos by Geoffrey Smith