In a family of three kids, the first usually hates the parents, and the youngest weirds out and moves to Vienna to start an emo world music collective, but the middle one just quietly tries to make people happy. Making your stomach happy: Sportello.
The second in what'll soon be a triumvirate of Fort Point Lynch properties, Sportello (sounds like a maker of sac-flaunting soccer shorts, but means "counter service" in Italian) features casual, market-driven Boot food in a simple brown/white space highlighted by an elongated, serpentine, white Corian counter. The menu's core is soups, salads, and pastas including tagliatelle bolognese; pasta fagioli with shrimp meatballs; potato gnocchi with porcini, peas, & cream; and slow braised rabbit and green olive strozzapreti (vaguely double-helix-ish -- eat enough, and they too could determine when you die). Other highlights include handpicked Italian beers and wines, simple sandwiches, and scacciatas (like grilled flatbread pizzas) topped with either robiola and truffles or chestnut puree, prosciutto, rosemary, and vin santo -- reduced dessert wine probably not enjoyed by diabetic slugger Ron Santo.
Although Sport's lunch-only now, they'll keep a bakery operation open 'til seven so you can get house-made breads, croissants, Armato Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Mario Bianco honey, Christine Ferber jams, and chocolate bars -- homemade versions of the only thing that kept your chubby only-child ass company.