Japanese eats fill the void in Beverly Hills

Wilshire between Fairfax and La Cienega's a culinary wasteland, leaving visitors and denizens to disconsolately gnaw Coffee Bean sandwiches. Enter the new Japanese powerhouse Hokusai: with lunch specials in the $10-17 range, and French-infused dinner tasting plates, you can now relegate The Bean back to its intended role: as the place whose coffee helps you pass food previously eaten at real restaurants