Food & Drink


Finding something hidden inside something else is always awesome, like those wooden Russian nesting dolls, or actually, not those wooden Russian nesting 'bout almost every type of candy? For a concealed restaurant leveraging that concept to far sweeter effect, get to Shaboo.A resto-within-a-resto in Chef Masa Takayama's Bar Masa, Shaboo's a sneaky, subdued 52-seat chamber accessed through a sparkling glass wall in the much-more-bustling Masa, with tables individually lit by huge stainless steel steam pipe-looking deals, teak columns on the walls, and yellow leather chairs, all in keeping with the joint's "uncluttered appreciation for the rawness of the materials", proving someone clearly attended the Ol' Dirty Bastard School of Design. A rotating Omakase tasting menu means the chef selects what you delicately hoover: things might kick off with a white truffle sunomono, seasonal sashimi from Tokyo's famed Tsukiji market (determined by daily availability), or toro tartare paired with Petrossian caviar piled in a "gentle mound" (menu by Danielle Steele?). To deliver the kinda-namesake "shabu-shabu" eatin', each place setting's equipped with induction heating vessels; you'll get a quick tutorial on how to use them to poach various meats in broths called "dashis" (which take Shaboo up to eight hours to prep), then get set up with stuff like various types of seafood (razor clam, Island Creek scallop) to cook in a lobster bisque, or Ohmi Wagyu beef to poach in a ponzu sauce, an edible scheme that sustains itself just fine until everyone wants to take their meat out at the same time.Because they think you're just swell, Shaboo'll expertly pair each course with wine or one of their 100+ sakes (which're also available by the bottle); the whole affair wraps up with desserts like pomegranate sorbet and soba tea ice cream, which proves that even tea can be awesome, as long as it's hidden inside something far, far worse for you.