Food & Drink

Union

There was nothing quite like the childhood treehouse: an adult-free wonderland stocked with candy, BB guns, and Playboys, which of course you "only read for the cartoons". Growing that sanctuary right up, only this time allowing girls: Union

Just opened at City Center showpiece Aria, the massive Union is Light Group's newest restaurant, plating contemporary American in a kind of interstellar-treehouse-looking space loaded with wood: arching columns reminiscent of tree trunks shooting up through the ceiling and tables/chairs that look carved from stumps, all slightly elevated above and offering a view of the gaming floor, where just like the ones outside the treehouse, the adults are all stupid. The jazzed-up-American menu's compliments of Brian Masse, who's exec chef'd at joints like N9NE, Charlie Palmer Steak, and the Bellagio's FIX, firing up with apps like king crab & jalapeno tacos, the Union Signature Crispy Duck (think Peking style), and crispy veal sliders, whose diminutive size is absolutely not meant to remind you of the adorable little animals you're consuming...whoops! Ten premium cuts of steak range from a porterhouse for two, to Kobe flat iron, to bone-in filet mignon, any of which can be paired with six different sauces (truffle Hollandaise, creamy horseradish, classic Bordelaise...); beyond beef, there's goodness like a double-cut pork chop, a whopping 2lb. Maine Lobster, and Chilean sea bass, who is big and scary, but was easily tricked into buying rounds of boilermakers in the comedy classic Dumb y Mas Dumb

Since every treehouse needs some booze, Union's mixing cocktails like the Calm Before the Storm (Bombay, creme de cassis, lime juice, ginger beer), the Las Vegan (Bulleit Bourbon, grapefruit, lemon juice, Peychaud's bitters, flamed grapefruit peel) and the Fresno chile/Patron Silver/lime juice/passion fruit puree/cinnamon sugar Heat of the Moment, which you got caught in that one time, as you explained that you were just getting Milky Way off your zipper, and get out, Mom!