Parc de Buttes-Chaumont
Metro Botzaris or Buttes Chaumont
This hilly green patch in the 19th arrondissement isn’t full of tour groups, but welcomes joggers and local families, especially on Sundays. The park is crowned by a little temple-esque gazebo overlooking the central lake. Kids will enjoy the puppet shows and donkey rides, while adult visitors will appreciate a drink at Le Pavillon du Lac. It’s a bit of a hike out on the weirdest metro line (the 7bis) but hey, even the commute will be non-touristy.
The mix of Asian cultures and a wave of hipsters make Belleville the place to be... it’s where you need to go to prove to your friends that you are indeed still cool. Stroll uphill along rue de Belleville to check out the graffiti at rue Dénoyez, then hike up the stairs at Parc de Belleville for unique views of the city. Take your pick of Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai restaurants in the district, or just grab a coffee at hipster hangout Cream. It’s basically full of as much non-touristy fun as you can hope for.