If you sniff hard enough outside the 12th Ave building that once housed the original REI (and more recently the Capitol Hill Goodwill), you can still smell the creosote. You can also sit on a bench outside Kurt Cobain's house or sigh in the general direction of Seattle Center's Fun Forest, where an amusement park ghost assuredly lurks. But elsewhere in Seattle, as they say in Portlandia, our sister to the south, the dream of the ‘90s is alive. At these places, you can find the grunge aesthetic that made Seattle famous, drink at the same bar as Layne Staley did, eat at the same restaurants Sir Mix-a-Lot did (and does), and maybe even smoke some of the same strains of pot as Chris Cornell -- only now, it's perfectly legal.
The 1907 theater is Seattle's oldest, but it shows its age only in the right ways with the old, painted ad on the side and the beautifully decorated interior. However, you can't see some of the most impressive parts of the Moore's history: its role as the setting for Pearl Jam and Alice in Chains videos, a Soundgarden live album, and the first full production of The Who's Tommy (featuring Bette Midler).