Italian eats and old school surroundings

Angelenos are accustomed to ignoring historical realities in the movies, whether it's Tom Hanks saving Private Ryan, or Martin Lawrence saving Princess Regina (Black Knight? Golden Reel Nominee for Best...Holla?). Starting today, Little Dom's is doing it with your dinner

The spawn of Hollywood institution Dominick's, LD's an upscale-casual bistro designed to feel just as old school as its forebear -- sometimes through legit means (antique bar and light fixtures; '40s-era celebrity headshots), sometimes not-so-legit (furnishings "aged" by the very set designers that created "Clint Eastwood"). While the menu nods to LD's younger neighborhood with gourmet pizza/burgers, it relies heavily on Spaghetti and Meatballs, Whitefish Picatta, cheese-and-mushroom fried-rice balls, and other circa-1948 staples, many sold at $1 less than Dominick's prices -- enough for the down payment on a Buick (now with Dynaflow Drive!). The wine list focuses on boutique Italian vintages, but also includes Dominick's house label "Dago" -- a throwback to a time when xenophobia was hilarious, and delicious

Within a few months, LD'll apply their classic LA sensibilities to lunch and breakfast service, then open an NYC-style deli next door -- geographically unrealistic, but nonetheless as welcome as that copy of Black Knight you cleverly stash in the DVD case for Castaway.