Tuscan fare with Cali flair

In every partnership, one party always comes out a little bit ahead -- which is why, despite his angelic voice, Ladysmith Black Mambazo won't even take Art Garfunkel's calls. See what shakes out between California and Tuscany, at Luce.The Intercontinental's flagship restaurant, Luce's collaborative nature starts with the space, where American aesthetics triumph: a geometric glass-and-steel hanger industro-glitzed with dangling, disco-ball-ish orbs, but with floors made from imported Italian stone -- which is just happy not to have been carved into a naked dude. The menu's more evenly balanced, with a chef from LA's Abode using locally-sourced tastiness to prepare Tuscan-influenced fare, the highlight being the 6-course "From Ocean to Land" -- everything from lobster-and-saffron-jus'd seafood stew to Sonoma lamb w/ basil crust, kohlrabi, flageolet, and spiced lamb jus (Jus: How far will you go to get it?). Italy pulls away with the wine list: though it's co-sommeliered by Napa's Mondavi and Tuscany's Frescobaldi, Fresco's entire portfolio is highlighted, whereas your table will not be graced with a 1.5L bomb of Woodbridge White Zin.Be aware that Luce's twin house specialties (whole Mediterranean sea bass and prime aged cote de boeuf) require 24hrs notice, and each serves two; raising the possibility that, after informing your dining partner you ordered for her yesterday, you will be met with the sound of silence.