Spanish grub on the river

They say three is a magic number, but they've clearly never met 3.1415926535897. There's more, you know. For a resto with at least three hams, get to Jamón Jamón Jamón.

Tucked under the Neo Lofts in the historic Miami River hood just west of I-95, and helmed by chef Felipe from old-school Miami landmark Casa Juancho, Jamón rocks an evolving menu of regional Spanish faves bolstered by hard-to-get hog, and feels like a shadowy basement spot in Barcelona thanks to stuff like an 8-ft paella pan they stir with a boat oar hanging on the wall, which technically makes your whole table the cox. Tapas include raw anchovies cured in vinegar w/ garlic & parsley, grilled shrimp done Spanish-style with the shell and head on, and three varieties of hand-carved jamon: coveted/limited export Serrano, rare Pata Negra (deliciously fattened on acorns), and Campofrio Serrano, which attains a sweet flavor after being dry-cured for 15 months, unlike the sour, but eventually grateful flavor that comes with being House, M.D.-cured. Entrees include grouper or snapper fillet from the commercial market across the street (grilled or baked, with a green sauce of parsley, white wine, olive oil & cream); garlic-sauteed langostinos with plump pearl rice; paella with veal, pork, chicken, lobster, shrimp, Med mussels & monkfish; and the house specialty, a 12-lb suckling pig (whole or portioned) that's roasted with pork belly on the skin to make it crispy after being fed only milk, which does a body good, unless you're a baby pig destined to be made crispy.

For the drinkin', there's an Iberian wine list with stuff like Cava Codorniu (a Spanish sparkling white) and Mas Codina Cab (a single-vineyard maker producing only 6,000 bottles a year), suds like Michelob Amber Bock on tap, and bottles of Spanish Estrella Damm -- the same thing Archimedes said when he realized pi wasn't just for breakfast anymore.