When adopting a tried-and-true theme, going next level can help a restaurant separate itself, like a sushi joint with ninja waiters, or something not wildly lame. Going wildly maritime: The Boathouse. Gussying up what used to be Bostwick's with oars on the walls, nautical flags above the bar, and a yacht rail wrapped around the open-air deck overlooking the docks below, the Boathouse backs up it's seafaring décor and aquatic menu by actually offering full service to vessels docked in the marina, like Chili's carside service, but for people with money and tastebuds. The menu starts with traditional raw bar stuff (clams, oysters, stone crab...), then moves to apps like grilled shrimp soaked in tequila, jumbo lump crab cakes, and spicy marinara-/chipotle mayo-sided crispy calamari (though not nearly as crispy as those sacrificed to Mola Ram's Kali Ma-ri). The next step's broken down into two sides: "From the Land", which includes garlic-crusted French rack of lamb, and pan-roasted chicken w/ crispy bacon; and "From the Sea", which ranges from black truffle-crusted salmon, to grilled and blackened swordfish, to 1½ lbs of grilled Alaskan king crab legs -- it's not good to be the king when your people are delicious. Starting tomorrow, the crew from The Eldridge are taking over post-sunset on Fri/Sat nights, with cocktail & bottle service supplied by comely lasses in uniforms by NYC's Pencey, an outfit whose low cut, leggy designs are a tried-and-true way for women to look so attractive they separate themselves from you.