City Island

You've worked hard all winter. Now the weather's changing and it's time to relax at New York's top-drawer island getaway: City Island.

You might know CI as the destination for drunken firemen with tight shirts and huge arms. And it is, but you should go anyway. Your adventure begins with the journey, as you experience the romance of subway travel -- and the intrigue of a bus transfer.

When visiting this quaint New England-style fishing village, you should

Stay: at Le Refuge, a seven-room, 19th Century sea captain's house w/French restaurant, overlooking the harbor and run by Pierre Saint-Denis -- who always makes good on his website's titillating promise, "Your wish is his pleasure".

Own: The links, at twin public golf courses Pelham Bay and Split Rock (718.885.1258), only minutes from "The Island".

Master: The sea, with Start Sailing's three-day instructional course. They use the Island's quiet side, so you won't get pummeled by oceangoing tankers.

Eat: lunch at fried seafood wonderland Seafood City, then destroy a lobster dinner at Sammy's Fishbox. If you fear the fruits of the sea, hit the The Black Whale's patio for ribs that'll slide off the bone, right into your heart.

Drink: at the ramshackle bait shop/beer vendor The Boat Livery (663 City Island Ave), or the just-opened Sixmilecross (288 City Island Ave). Avoid the Seafood City parking lot, which on weekend nights overflows with teens who'll completely disrespect your authority.

Of course you could always weekend in a New England-style fishing village in New England -- but if you can't get there by Metro Card swipe, it's not really paradise.