You know a restaurateur takes his pizza seriously when he's heating the pies on volcanic stone in a wood-fired oven that's made specially by Italian artisans. The man behind the kitchen is Roberto Caporuscio, a certified member of the Associazone Pizzaiouli Napoletana, a trade organization devoted to upholding traditional Neapolitan pizza techniques. Caporuscio's bona fide position in the pizza-making world puts Kesté among the best spots in the city for the sparsely topped, doughy discs -- all made with imported Italian ingredients.