Trattoria Cinque

Assuming your father is worth honoring, following in his footsteps is a good thing, but you don't have to perfectly mimic his path, like learning to be all H.A.M.* with a lightsaber whilst shifting from "murderously evil" to "good". Selectively expanding a father's legacy, Trattoria Cinque, opening Wednesday.

From the son of the founder of Rock Center's Alfredo of Rome, TC continues his father's gustatory heritage while paying aesthetic homage to a not-followed paternal legacy of Italian car dealership ownerage; the expansive main space is split between a large white marbled bar room and a windowed-wine-cellar-abetted dining space, airily divided by a portico'd exposed brick wall touched with a faded white racing stripe, all filled with tan leather banquettes and chairs painted Ferrari red, motor oil black hand-hammered brass hanging light fixtures, images of vintage Italian cars & motorcycles, and dual working fireplaces, cozily recreating the blazing inferno of poorly ventilated vintage whips. The seasonal menu rocks exactly cinque items per category, with a Milan-bred chef kicking off small plates like Frittura Mista (fried calamari, shrimp, zucchini, apples, arrabiata sauce) and Carpaccio di Tonno w/ arugala & avocado; pastas such as spinach & ricotta dumplings and short rib stuffed ravioli; and mains like whole roasted Cornish hen, aged ribeye w/ mashed potatoes & rabe, and a classic seafood brodetto, the place where mollusks shamefully pay for some clam. A rotating selection of five Italian-n-local beers'll be on tap, and the value-heavy, twenty bottle, Boot-sourced wine list eschews glass pours in favor of 1/3 bottle quartinos starting at $9; five Italian cocktails include classics like the Aperol Spritz and blood orange abetted Campari, and once mains are cleared away shot glasses are automatically slammed down and bottles of grappa and limoncello delivered, with pours on the honor system, so don't try to bamboozele them. Groan.

TC also houses two private dining areas, with the upstairs dropping two flatscreens and an ornate "artichoke"-style hanging light fixture, and the downstairs rocking its own bar; weekend brunch should arrive by the end of the month (porchetta eggs benedict, speck & egg pizza, etc.), because the best way to honor your father is by eating a meal he taught you was for women.