Taste Test: Burger King's New Impossible Sausage Breakfast Sandwiches
Is it possible to improve on... perfection?
After the completion of my wildly successful, award nomination-worthy fast food delivery column ‘How You Holding Up?,’ I was ready to abdicate my paper crown. But, when Burger King added the Impossible Croissan’wich and sausage, egg, and cheese biscuit to its morning menu, the Ancient Order of Benevolent Restaurant Mascots of the Round Table pulled me back in for one last job.
See, not only am I the nation’s foremost fast food delivery expert (haha), I’m also a lifelong sausage, egg, and cheese devotee. My enduring argument is that the SEC’s flavor-to-bite ratio, ergonomic design, and heat-capturing construction combine to make it the ideal breakfast sandwich. So it was up to me to not only interrogate the merits of BK’s latest lab-created additions, but to see how they compare to the King’s analogue, real meat offerings. Here’s what reigns supreme among the royal chain’s A.M. sausage sandwich options -- Impossible or otherwise.
I tried the Impossible Croissan’wich first. Although I knew what to expect, it was an inauspicious start. As its sophisticated portmanteau implies, the “sausage,” egg, and cheese vehicle is an intended croissant facsimile. And I guess if you looked at it without knowing its name you might think, “weird, that bread kind of has a croissant pattern.” If a not-especially-talented wizard conjured a croissant, this is what they would end up with. But it was a little buttery and a little flaky, its taste and texture fractions of the real deal. Sandwiched between American cheese and inimitable fast food egg (perhaps my favorite variety of chicken egg!), the Impossible sausage was too tangy, its texture too uncanny. It tasted like I was eating Imitation Food Product in a dystopian future, which... wait.
The Impossible SEC biscuit was next and, once unwrapped, it looked exponentially better than the Croissan’wich. As a bonus, it didn’t have a stupid name. The biscuit was golden with a Real Food asymmetrical texture, the Impossible sausage and the egg peeked out from between its two halves like the holiday windows on Fifth Avenue, and the visibly melty cheese did all the things to my brain that good looking food is supposed to do. But I was poised for disappointment. That is, until the pivotal moment that I learned never to judge a sandwich by its... previous sandwich?
The fluffy biscuit had all the buttery flavor the Croissan’wich aspired to, its deliciousness elevating the Impossible patty I was borderline repulsed by in its other form. At first I thought that Burger King had mixed up the wrappers, that this was the classic SEC rather than its imposter. Even after another bite I wasn’t sure, so I hastily unwrapped the supposed sausage sandwich. Inconclusive! It only became clear which was which after I’d pulled each one apart. The Impossible version had that unmistakable preternaturally smooth finish on either side and around its perimeter.
Enlightened, I could finally taste the difference. The sausage had more depth of flavor than the Impossible patty, and a matte finish where the Impossible aftertaste skewed waxy. But both were good.
I thought the sausage Croissan’wich would split the difference, that it would prove whether the biscuit alone was an unsung hero capable of transforming whatever supposed protein it housed. This last sandwich was only marginally more appealing than its Impossible companion, unclear which side was up and which was down. It was better than its plant-based doppelgänger, but not as good as either biscuit iteration.
I gazed upon the Impossible Croissan’wich, sausage Croissan’wich, Impossible biscuit, and sausage biscuit I’d assembled on my kitchen island, each one’s mass reduced by methodical bites. (Wouldn’t it just be something if this is what life were like; if we could go to a restaurant and say, one bite of each, please! Or if we could just... go to a restaurant.) Each one met my technical expectations. They all handled well, held their heat, and had a balanced bite-to-flavor ratio. Some of those flavors were just better than others.
At the end of the day (Or, morning; Burger King stops serving breakfast bright and early at 10:30am), taste alone set them apart. The sausage, egg, and cheese biscuit tasted the best, followed by the Impossible SEC, the Impossible Croissan’wich, and the sausage Croissan’wich.
But I’d still prefer any one of the above over a bacon, egg, and cheese, whenever possible.