Over-the-top restaurants walk a fine line between relentless opulence and...sushi-bearing ninjas. For an eye-popping space sans cheesy theme-ery: Grayz, opening today. Housed in a former Rockefeller manse, Gray Kunz' new two-floor lounge-aurant specializes in...glitz. Upstairs, you'll find chandelier'd tables, plushly-banqueted alcoves, an S-shaped oak-paneled bar, and extruded corkboard walls (because there's opulence, and then there's opulence you can tack up with Kirk Cameron Tiger Beat centerfolds). Just past the bar's a semi-private room abutted by a glass-enclosed, two-story wall of wine, taller and slightly classier than your cherished Pleasure Cove "Yard of Daquerita". Downstairs, there's a sleeve of lunch-friendly two-tops you can load up with both gourmet gorge (e.g., salt stone grilled prawns w/ kim chee, pear, and ginger) and street-gourmet items like the minced veal weisswurst -- served with handmade pretzels, it'll break you of your habit of smuggling in a top-hat brimming with Sabrett. The lounge-aurant's focal point's a 13-story open-air atrium offering a full view of the wine tower -- a majestic sight, but one that leaves Grayz open to incursions by envious, black-clad assassin-waiters.