A small-plates second-try

They say if at first you don't succeed, try, try again, which explains why everyone has seen Brett Favre's wang from, like, six different angles. Putting that advice to good, non-infidelitous use, the peeps behind Bao Dim Sum House.

Opening Wed, Bao's a nearly-all-wood, more-upscale-than-most spacious ode to dim summery featuring dangling Asian lanterns, Buddah statues, and mid-entrance bamboo stalks, all in the same spot and from the same team behind the now-defunct Jian, who decided that there just wasn't enough demand for Korean BBQ and revised the concept, which is a mistake, as that song was the main reason Teenage Fanclub won Spin's 1991 Album of the Year! To guarantee authenticity, they brought in chefs trained in Hong Kong before doing time in dim sum hot bed (no, seriously) San Gabriel Valley; the result's a ton of steamed deliciousness ranging from juicy pork dumplings, to sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf, to oyster-sauced Chinese meatballs, which is a lot like the original, only everyone at Camp North Star has recently developed a voracious appetite for American consumer goods. Of course, there's non-steamed grub as well, like baked BBQ pork pastry, crispy shrimp stuffed eggplant, and pan grilled spinach pork buns, which you should only try on a first date if you're a bolder man than most.

They've also got a full bar, and though they're serving both daily lunch and dinner, they're doing table service only, rather than the traditional method of roving carts, which, like roving eyes, didn't end up being a safe Brett.