Most posh restaurants require you to dine on their terms, i.e., call three months in advance, wear a jacket, and wait out 7 preciously tiny courses, between which you will cheep hungrily like a baby bird in the nest... For a big-deal spot that meets you halfway, try Local. Local's a minimalist bistro started up by Oola's former chef and an ex- Michael Mina sommelier -- a man so fearless, he's spiting his own restaurant's name by importing Chinese and Indian Sauvignon Blancs. Despite the pedigree, Local keeps things casual by reserving 28 of 50 seats for walk-ins, and encouraging you to take your time with an 80+ publication newsstand you're free to enjoy -- so long as you don't stealth into the bathroom with a copy of Hot Cook. Relaxed vibe aside, the food's top notch, with wood-burning-oven dishes like Mushroom and Roquefort Pizza and Mahi-Mahi w/Mashed Potatoes and Hearts of Palm; there's also 7am breakfast service, though anyone fueling up that early must have a Heart of Palm Pilot. Removing further barriers, Local stocks an adjoining retail shop with all its wines, plus boutique sundries like Strauss Family Milk, St. Benoit Yogurt, etc -- so the only thing standing between you and fine food is finding someone to regurge it into your mouth.