
When setting about to plunder the Earth, it can be difficult to decide where to start, especially with that damn Sigourney Weaver making it all sound so delicious. For a restaurant that wants you to simultaneously pilfer both the land and sea: Ocean Prime.The newest eatery anchoring Larimer Square, this behemoth, 400-seat, surf-'n-turf temple serves it up amidst retro design elements like a wine tower and water wall, and alongside a vino list highly awarded by Wine Spectator, though for exactly what's unclear, as it all just sort of sits there in a glass, and doesn't run or pass or anything. Start small with apps like Point Judith calamari with sweet chili/ candied cashews, white truffle caviar deviled eggs, and a sea scallops/slow braised short ribs S&Fer, or raw bar it with Dutch Harbor King Crab legs, or a Colossal Shrimp Cocktail, which hopefully comes in a glass big enough to knock out anybody who points out its oxymoron. Juicy mains come from an unfancied "prime" menu of protein slabs, with meats (a standard or bone-in filet, NY or Kansas City Strip, plus Colorado lamb chops), and sea-fare (twin lobster tails, mountain trout, and lane snapper) all available with flavorings from a green peppercorn sauce to a black truffle butter; or as more gussied goodness like their "prime feature", a crab-crusted blue tilapia served with fingerling potatoes and French beans, or "freedom beans", if you'd like to make a living yelling on FOX News.As pretty much everything on the menu'll pair well with wine, they've got 40+ glasses, and 150+ bottles topping out with a '98 Chateau Moutoun Rothschild, which at $595, ensures the last thing getting plundered will be your wallet.