Food & Drink

Steak and seafood on Larimer Sq

When setting about to plunder the Earth, it can be difficult to decide where to start, especially with that damn Sigourney Weaver making it all sound so delicious. For a restaurant that wants you to simultaneously pilfer both the land and sea: Ocean Prime.The newest eatery anchoring Larimer Square, this behemoth, 400-seat, surf-'n-turf temple serves it up amidst retro design elements like a wine tower and water wall, and alongside a vino list highly awarded by Wine Spectator, though for exactly what's unclear, as it all just sort of sits there in a glass, and doesn't run or pass or anything. Start small with apps like Point Judith calamari with sweet chili/ candied cashews, white truffle caviar deviled eggs, and a sea scallops/slow braised short ribs S&Fer, or raw bar it with Dutch Harbor King Crab legs, or a Colossal Shrimp Cocktail, which hopefully comes in a glass big enough to knock out anybody who points out its oxymoron. Juicy mains come from an unfancied "prime" menu of protein slabs, with meats (a standard or bone-in filet, NY or Kansas City Strip, plus Colorado lamb chops), and sea-fare (twin lobster tails, mountain trout, and lane snapper) all available with flavorings from a green peppercorn sauce to a black truffle butter; or as more gussied goodness like their "prime feature", a crab-crusted blue tilapia served with fingerling potatoes and French beans, or "freedom beans", if you'd like to make a living yelling on FOX News.As pretty much everything on the menu'll pair well with wine, they've got 40+ glasses, and 150+ bottles topping out with a '98 Chateau Moutoun Rothschild, which at $595, ensures the last thing getting plundered will be your wallet.

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