19 wieners, now in Mid Wilshire

Freshly arrived Angelenos often start out in the Valley, then move over the hill once they're fed up with the canyon commute, the stigma of lameness, and the stigma of Tim Allen. Meat follows the same trajectory, with Brats Brothers

Run by real German brothers, Brats started up as a Sherman Oaks fastish-food spot vending a stunning variety of fresh, lean sausages; now they've launched a second location in a mini-mall near the Beverly Center (translation: they've arrived). The menu's identical, including 19 varieties of naturally-cased wiener, from basic (the smoked-pork Polish, the Hebrew National All-American), to out-there (the port-infused venison Austrian, the wild boar Andouille Cajun), to the way-out there (the 'gator-meat Swamp Thing and the sweet duck/fig/brandy Peking Brat, a.k.a., "The Bai Ling"). Each comes with three mustards, curry-or-smoked ketchup, and comes either a la carte or as a meal w/ soda and any two of six homemade sides, including pinto-bean-and-beef chili, grilled caramelized onions, and "Grandma's Sauerkraut" w/ onions, tomatoes, and bacon -- take that, Rosh Hashanah

More spots are planned, but locations aren't set yet; if they follow the LA cycle, they'll eventually return to the Valley and open large in Encino, and upgrade stigmas from Tim Allen to Ray Romano.