Armed with abstract light installations and a reclaimed Cold Stone marble-slab counter, this "neighborhood restaurant done right" is doling out Sunday brunch (Spinach & Gruyere Omelette, Monte Cristo Sandwich, House-smoked Ham), plus dinnertime small plates (parsley bouillon/sweet garlic sauteed frogs' legs) and entrees like a gingerbread/huckleberry/pumpkin saddle of venison, and a black sesame-sauced lamb shoulder actually baked in hay -- to get it for free, eat, then bale.

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