The Past. It gave us the Northern Line, which rubs our arses raw, but now it's also given us something that'll rub our arses right: Tender jeans, a new brand from a London merchant with a near-pathological obsession with the craftsmanship of yore, when clothes were "designed to be worn hard", and not just the birthday suits. Just some of the time-honoured craziness:
Fabric: Every piece is woven on pre-industrial shuttle looms, then individually dyed and re-dyed by hand in an "unbelievably painstaking process" that takes almost an entire day, so quit complaining about doing your tax returns.
The Dye: Going entirely plant-based, they use both the awesomely named bloodwood, and woad, the same stuff "Boudicca's Iceni tribe painted their bodies with", as if being half-naked in Britain wouldn't make you blue enough.
Brass: All metalwork is made via the same "lost wax method" used to cast classical bronze sculptures, which involves making a new cast from wax/plaster for each individual piece, then pouring in melted brass ingots for a uniquely "characterful casting", meaning you can look forward to Johnny Depp hanging off your thigh.
Leather: They use an 18-month-long oak bark tanning method dating "since the Roman invasion" to produce a softer, more supple, stronger leather that "darkens & stretches over time" (presumably, lunchtime).
The finished goods come in slim, wide, and tapered cuts. He's also pushing denim & cotton jackets, belts, and tees including one commissioned from 90-year-old illustrator Dorrit Dekk, depicting an elephant on a scooter -- so apparently The Past can produce something more advanced than the Northern, when it wants to.