Some of the other authentic spots have, naturally, wandered further from the historic Calle Ocho as Miami itself became an honorary Cuban city. Molina’s Ranch Restaurant, a classic diner in Hialeah, well out of the city’s usual tourist zones. Little Havana Restaurant in North Miami Beach is considered one of Miami’s top Cuban restaurants, and with well-below-market-rate mojitos. If you find yourself in the nest of sand-seeking tourists that is South Beach, you can downshift for Cuban comfort food and great cafecitos at Puerto Sagua.
After dark? Try to find yourself in Wynwood, a resurgent arts and culture district just two miles north of the Freedom Tower. There you can’t really go wrong, but at El Patio, with its reasonable cocktails and kitschy-chic ’60s decor, you can easily imagine yourself in the Miami of two generations ago -- at a moment when the city was embracing Cuban newcomers by the thousands, and they were getting to work building the city you see around you today.