ZZ's Clam Bar does just what you'd expect New York to do to a tiny seafood kitchen: make it exclusive, extravagant, and exceedingly expensive. A bouncer out front enforces the reservations-only policy, which are not so easy to come by considering there are only 12 seats in the brick-walled space. The kitchen turns out high-end, mostly raw seafood that goes far beyond the namesake raw bar clams: you can expect a changing lineup of small plates like fruit-topped snapper fillet and trout roe on toast. The cocktails are as well-made as they are high-priced. Don't even think about slipping the pearl-handled utensils in your purse.