Edward Kim’s Ruxbin is an eccentric ode to culinary dissonance. Not much about the New American restaurant makes conventional sense: interior walls are papered with torn out book pages, a square dining room has rounded edges, and there is perhaps a bit too much orange in the color palette. Then there’s the menu. Heirloom beets meet spiced yogurt, cured egg yolk, and pickled mussel; country fried celeriac is escorted by white bean “ranch,” rooftop greens, tomato confit, and brussel sprouts. But the dishes are most compelling because they are ephemeral; the roster rotates within the season, meaning you won’t see the same thing twice. But don’t get ahead of yourself’; with a no-reservations policy in place, you’ll be fortunate if you can even get seated a second time around.