Four Sisters Café

Dallas

The latest project from Dale Wamstad of Del Frisco's and III Forks fame, this double-level airy palace of what they're calling "True American" fare features a wraparound mezzanine, ornate brass chandeliers, a rectangular granite bar, and the joint's namesake: a painting by San Marcos's Jill Pankey that Wamstad is convinced depicts him in drag alongside Snipes! Swayze! Leguizamo! London!...four old-school female restaurant critics.

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