If this East Dallas barbecue joint seems to be stuck in the mid-20th century (what with its wagon-wheel dining room partitions and cafeteria-style ordering system), it’s because it is. Monterrey BBQ was once Raymond’s Bar-B-Que Cafeteria. The barbacoa here is soft, juicy without being greasy, and beefy without being gamey. The handmade corn tortilla, hot and bumpy from its time on a flattop griddle, only improves the meat. The grounded, touched-with-smoke salsa de chile pasilla evokes the beginnings of barbacoa in Latin America. It’s pretty much heaven.