Like dim sum’s home (Hong Kong), Alameda is an island. East Ocean Seafood boasts an incredibly comfortable (and oddly civilized) cart-filled dining room. The classics are winners, like delicate dumplings screaming with Dungeness crab (now in season!), or the funky marinated seafood and pork wrapped in bean curd skin. Finish with durian custard-filled pastry puffs, which are like beignets gone haywire.