Astoria Seafood, part-fish market and part-frenetic eatery, has a concept is as simple as it's name: fresh fish. The place is a Queens relic, owned by the same Greek family for three generations, and has attracted a clientele as diverse as the borough it calls home. Essentially, you scan the day's haul lined up on mountains of ice, wrap a plastic bag around your hands and pick up what you want. Choices abound: river trout, huge shrimp, whole octopi, red snapper. Once decided, you bring your fish to the counter and tell the fishmonger how you'd like it cut and grilled. There's a mania to the ritual, with customers carrying plastic bags with huge pink fins sticking out and hungry people waiting anxiously for a seat. You can't miss with the fish, but don't pass on the Greek salad.