Perhaps the greatest jazz party in New Orleans (which is saying a lot) goes off each Wednesday in Celebration Hall, an unassuming brick-and-board house that straddles Treme and the 7th Ward. Just a mile from the French Quarter, it's where locals converge to hear the roaring TBC Brass Band: an all-comers concert and dance party at an unlikely musical shrine. The show starts at 9pm and stretches into the night with people packing the hall to shimmy, sweat, and amplify the swell of the music in the tight confines. Outside, vendors grill sausage and oysters. Drinks flow as easily as a trombone slide. A mere $5 cover is all that separates you from one of New Orleans’ authentic jam sessions, which omits the neon lights and balcony views that enthrall most tourists.